Simple Crochet Pattern | Symplestuff in Life

Good day to all lovely souls out there!

After the latest listing of my Mini Cube House Amigurumi Pattern, I decided to go back to coaster patterns. Actually I was planning to continue with an uncompleted pattern but after a few rounds of testing, a new coaster idea pops up (will be listing it in my Etsy shop pretty soon) and this has indirectly led me to having some ideas for simple and elegant coaster patterns.

I have been experimenting on different type of stitches like double crochet stitch (dc), half-double crochet stitch (hdc) and extended single crochet stitch to get different textures for the base of the coasters. If you are interested to know more, you can find them at them in my Etsy shop (with detailed instructions and photos).

In this post, I will be sharing a simple pattern using double crochet stitch as its base. I love mixing with yarns in my crocheting, so this in pattern, I am using three different yarn with colors inspired by Autumn. Hope you will enjoy crocheting it.

Difficulty: Basic

Time Taken: 20-30 min

Abbreviations (US Terminology)

AMR – Adjustable Magic Ring

BLO – Back Loops Only

Ch – Chain

dc – Double Crochet

dcinc – Increase [Crocheting 2 stitches into 1 stitch]

sc – Single Crochet

slst – Slip Stitch

y/o – Yarn Over

I am using the following yarns and crocheting using 2mm hook, the dimension is approximately 12cm x 12cm:

Color 1: Milk Cotton Yarn (15-WPI)
Color 2: Hemp Yarn (21-WPI)
Color 3: Acrylic Yarn (17-WPI)

NOTE:

If you prefer a nicer color transition, I would suggest you to cut and weave in your tail at Round 3 and Round 4 instead of yarning over with the new color.

Picot stitch will be used in this pattern, if you are not sure what a picot stitch is, you can find instructions in the web or YouTube videos.

Using Color 1, form an AMR

Round 1: Ch-3 (use this as your first dc stitch), 11-dc, slip stitch into the top loop of Chain 3 (12)

Round 2: Ch-2, 12-dcinc, slip stitch into the first dc stitch (24)

Round 3: Ch-2, 24-dcinc, slip stitch into the first dc stitch and y/o with Color 2 (48)

Round 4 (BLO): Ch-2, (11-dc, dcinc) x 4, slip stitch into the first dc stitch and y/o with Color 3 (52)

Round 5: Ch-1, 52-slst, slip stitch back into the first slst (52) (Take note of the tension in this round, do not make it too tight or else your workpiece might curl up)

Round 6

Step 1: (Ch-5, skip next 2 stitches, 1-slst into the back loop of next stitch) x 3

Step 2 (BLO): 3-sc, 1-slst

Step 3: Repeat Step 1-2 another 3 times

Round 7

Step 1: (4-sc into the Chain 5 space, Ch-1, make a picot stitch, 4-sc back into the Chain 5 space) x 3

Step 2: 2-slst, (Ch-3, 2-slst back) x 3, slip stitch back into the same stitch

Step 3: Repeat Step 1-2 another 3 times, slip stitch back into the first stitch, cut and weave in tail

You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern.

Hope all you lovely souls enjoy crocheting this simple Autumn inspired coaster.

Do share with us your project in the comment section or in our Facebook page should you decided to crochet one for yourself or your loved ones.

Till then,

TTFN~ Cheers!

The height of this crewmate is about 5.5cm/2.2”. I am using 15 WPI milk cotton yarn and a 2mm crochet hook for this pattern.

Difficulty: Beginner/Basic

Time Taken: 30 min

Abbreviations (US Terminology)

AMR – Adjustable Magic Ring

BLO/FLO – Back/Front Loop Only

Ch – Chain

inc – Single Crochet Increase

sc – Single Crochet

slst – Slip Stitch

HEAD/BODY (Yarn Thickness: 17 WPI)

Round 1

Step 1: Ch 6

Step 2: 3-sc into the 2nd chain from hook , 3-sc, 3-sc into the last loop (9)

Step 3: Working on the opposite side of the chain, 3-sc, slst into the first sc stitch

Round 2: (inc, 5-sc) x 2 (14)

Round 3: 14-sc

Round 4: 3-sc, inc, 6-sc, inc, 3-sc (16)

Round 5-7: 16-sc

Round 8: (3-sc, inc) x 4 (20)

Round 9: 20-sc

Round 10

Step 1: 5-sc

Step 2: Join the 6th and 17th stitch together with 1-slst, then join the 7th and 16th stitch with 1-slst

Step 3: 8-sc, 1-slst back into the 2 joined slip stitches made in Step 2, 3-sc (11)

Before we crochet the legs, you can start stuffing fiberfill into the body. Excluding the 4 single crochet stitches in the middle, each leg will have a circle of 8 single crochet stitches. With that in mind, let’s continue with the legs.

FIRST LEG

Round 1: 5-sc, 1-slst into the joined stitch, Ch-1, 3-sc (8)

Round 2: 5-sc, skip the Ch-1 stitch, 3-sc (8)

Round 3: 8-sc

Round 4: 8-sc (BLO), cut and leave a tail to close off by picking the outer loops of the 8 stitches. Stuff the leg before tightening the yarn tail .

SECOND LEG

You can insert your hook into any of the stitches, just remember to make a slip stitch and Chain 1 when you reach the center part. In this pattern, I’ve inserted my hook into the 2nd stitch from the center.

Round 1: Ch-1, 1-sc into the same stitch as Chain 1, 6-sc, 1-slst into the joined stitch, Ch-1, 1-sc (8)

Round 2: 7-sc, skip the Ch-1 stitch, 1-sc (8)

Round 3: 8-sc

Round 4: 8-sc (BLO), cut and leave a tail to close off.

FACE MASK

Using White color yarn, Ch-5

Round 1

Step 1: 1-sc into the 2nd chain from hook, 3-sc, change to Light Blue color in your last yarn over (4)

Step 2: inc into the same stitch, 2-sc, inc into the last loop, slst into the first sc stitch (6)

Round 2: (1-sc, inc) x 5, change to Black color in your last yarn over (15)

Round 3: 15-sc, slst into the first sc stitch, cut and leave a tail for attaching purpose

BACKPACK

Using the same color as the head/body, Ch-5

Row 1: 1-sc into the 2nd chain from hook, 3-sc, Ch-1, turn (4)

Row 2-3: 4-sc, Ch-1, turn

From this point, we will crochet along the perimeter of the workpiece

Round 1

Step 1: 1-sc into the same stitch as Chain 1, 2-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1, 1-sc) into the last stitch the TOP side (5)

Step 2: Rotate your workpiece until the SIDE 1 is facing up

Step 3: 2-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1, 1-sc) into the last stitch of SIDE 1 (4)

Step 4: Rotate your workpiece until the BOTTOM side is facing up, Repeat Step 3

Step 5: Rotate your workpiece until the SIDE 2 is facing up, 2-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1) into the last stitch, slst back into the first sc stitch (3)

Round 2: Ch-1, 20-sc (BLO), slst back into the first sc stitch (Note: These 20 stitches include the 4 Ch-1 back loops at the four corners)

Round 3: Ch 1, 20-slst (FLO), 1-slst back into the first Chain 1, cut and leave a tail for sewing

EGG HAT (DESIGN 1)

Using Orange or Yellow color, form an AMR

Round 1: 8-sc into AMR

Round 2: (FLO) 8-sc, change to White color in your last yarn over

Round 3: (BLO) 8-sc

Round 4: (2-sc, inc) x 2, 2-inc (12)

Round 5

Step 1: 1-slst, Ch-1, 1-sc into the same stitch as Chain 1, Ch-2, 2-slst (4)

Step 2: Ch-1, 1-sc into the next stitch, Ch-2, 1-slst (2)

Step 3: Ch-1, 1-sc into the same stitch as Chain 1, Ch-2, 2slst (3)

Step 4: Ch-1, 1-sc into the next stitch, Ch-1, 1-sc into the same stitch as Chain 1 (2)

Step 5: Ch-2, 2-slst, Ch-1, 1-sc into the next stitch, slst back to the first slip stitch, cut and leave a long tail for sewing (3)

EGG HAT (DESIGN 2)

Using Orange or Yellow color, form an AMR

Round 1-4: Same as Design 1

Round 5

Step 1: 1-slst, Ch-1, 1-sc into the next stitch, Ch-2, 1-slst (3)

Step 2: (Ch-1, 1-sc into the next stitch, Ch-2, 1-slst) x 4, 1-slst into the last stitch, slst back into the first slip stitch, cut and leave a long tail for sewing (9)

ASSEMBLING

When you view your workpiece from the top, the top 2 rows are only 1 round (see photo below), do not consider it as 2 rounds when you are positioning your facemask and backpack. Instead of sewing along the perimeter at the beginning, I would make a simple stitch at the four corners of the facemask and backpack in order to secure the position before stuffing (if needed).