November 11, 2021

Free Crochet Pattern: Teddy Bear Bottle Holder Using Nipper Yarn

After completing the bunny bottle holder, I crocheted one more (there are 4 of them..🤣) suitable for the same bottle size. In the bunny bottle holder, I was using mole yarn with a weightage of 5-WPI and I did mention in my post that if you are crocheting that using a yarn weightage, you can increase it using the standard incremental formula for the base. Just to give you all a clearer picture, I decided to use a thinner yarn to crochet this bottle cover so that you can see the difference.

Without further adieu, let’s begin to crochet!

Difficulty: Basic (for crocheting), Intermediate (needle sculpting the head portion)

Time Taken: 30-45 min

Abbreviations (US Terminology)

BLO – Back Loops Only

Ch – Chain

dc – Double Crochet

hdc – Half-Double Crochet

sc2tog – Single Crochet 2 stitches Together

sc – Single Crochet

scinc – Single Crochet Increase (crocheting 2 stitches into one stitch)

slst – Slip Stitch

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

I am using 100% polyester nipper yarn with a weightage of 8 to 10-WPI (Bella Baby) and a 5mm crochet hook for this bottle holder. The bottle holder has a base diameter of 8.5cm and a height of

FRONT: 13.5cm if you measure it from the head of the teddy bear to the bottom

BACK AND SIDE: 11.5cm excluding the height of the teddy bear’s head

The length of the ears is 2cm.

Other materials: Big eye needle, 2 safety eyes (5mm) with studs, and 1 safety nose preferably with stud (10mm)

Things to take note of during crocheting this pattern:

A stitch marker is recommended (especially for the first few rounds) in the first stitch crocheting using this yarn even if we are going to doing a “slip stitch” at the end of each round and a “Chain 1” to begin a new round.
The first stitch of each round is to be crocheted into the same stitch as “Chain 1”
I would be using more than 1 stitch marker to indicate some slip stitches as a guide when we are doing stitch counting because the slip stitches are often easily overlooked.

BASE

Round 1: Ch-2, 6-sc into the second loop from hook, slip stitch back into the first stitch (6)

Round 2: Ch-1, 6-scinc, slip stitch back into first stitch (12)

Round 3: Ch-1, 12-scinc, slip stitch back into first stitch (24)

Round 4: Ch-1, (3-sc, scinc) x 6, slip stitch back into first stitch (30)

In this pattern, you can see that the base of my bottle holder is completed in 4 rounds instead of 3 rounds when I was crocheting the Bunny bottle holder. Do note that it is okay to have the base slightly bigger or smaller than the bottle base.

BODY

Round 5: Ch-1, (BLO) 30-sc, slip stitch back to first stitch (30)

Round 6-7: Ch-1, 30-sc, slip stitch back to first stitch (30)

Round 8: Ch-1, 28-sc, sc2tog, slip stitch back to first stitch (29)

Round 9-10: Ch-1, 29-sc, slip stitch back to first stitch (29)

Round 11: Ch-1, (12-sc, sc2tog) x 2, 1-sc, slip stitch back to first stitch (27)

Round 12-14: Ch-1, 27-sc, slip stitch back to first stitch (27)

If your bottle is taller than 9.5cm, just increase the rounds of 27-sc and estimate enough space for the last three rounds where the head and ears are crocheted.

HEAD AND EARS

Round 15

Step 1: Ch-1, 11-sc, 1-slst (place a stitch marker into this slip stitch – “ST-1”) skip one stitch (12)

Step 2: 6-hdc into the next stitch, skip one stitch, 1-slst (place a stitch marker into this slip stitch – “ST-2”) (7)

Step 3: 11-sc, slip stitch back into first stitch (11)

Round 16

Step 1: Ch-1, 11-sc, 1-slst into the stitch marked by “ST1” (place the stitch marker back into the slip stitch) (12)

Step 2: 6-scinc, 1-slst into the stitch marked by “ST2” (place the stitch marker back into the slip stitch) (13)

Step 3: 11-sc, slip stitch back to first stitch (11)

Round 17

Step 1: Ch-1, 11-slst, 1-slst into the stitch marked by“ST1” in Round 16 (12)

Step 2: 2-slst up the slope, (1-sc, 2-hdc, 1-slst) into the next stitch (6)

Step 3: 6-slst, (1-sc,2-hdc, 1-slst) into the next stitch (10)

Step 4: 2-slst down the slope, 1-slst into the stitch marked by “ST2” in Round 16 (3)

Step 5: 11-slst, slip stitch back into the first Ch-1. (11)

Round 18: Make a final round of slip stitches. Do not slip stitch along the ears but insert your hook into the center hole (the stitch where you crochet the ears in Round 17) so that you can get the effect of the ear behind the head (See photos below). After completing the slip stitching, cut and weave in the tail.

OPTIONAL ITEMS:

As this bottle already comes with a strap, I don’t have to crochet any straps for it. However, there is a hook on the back of the bottle so I decided to make a strap to further secure the holder to the bottle (just in case).

AFTER COMPLETING ROUND 18:

Make a chain with a length of 10cm and single crochet all the way back, weave the tail in.
You can attach the buckle at the tip by making a few single crochet into the bucket before crocheting back up the strap.
Leave a long tail after finishing crocheting the strap, and bring the tail to the body in order to attach the other part of the bucket using the tail.
If you are not comfortable with doing the above, you can always sew the buckets separately after finishing crocheting the strap.

ENHANCING THE HEAD VIA NEEDLE SCULPTING

If you are still new to amigurumi, this is the part that requires some experience in crocheting amigurumi. It is difficult to describe the process but I can provide some of the basic steps in this tutorial.

I would twirl the yarn around the stitches (instead of inserting the needle through the stitches) of the ears and the top part of the head to make them rounder. As the nipple yarn is very soft, by doing so, you can “stiffen” the edges so that the ears can stand up better and you will get that “spiral effect” as seen in the photo below.

THERE ARE NO MISTAKES IN ART
Maria Renteria

To be honest, this is the first time I am crocheting a completed workpiece using this yarn, therefore, the process of producing this cutie was quite a bittersweet experience. Initially, I was planning to just sew in two ear patches, just like what I’ve done with the Bunny holder, and I’ve gotten a frog/turtle (that’s what my sister told me) 😣!

With proper needle sculpting, I think this froggy might just work. Unfortunately, I didn’t have any green nipple yarn therefore I had to revert back to Teddy Bear. If this design interests you, why not just give it a try? For the eye patches, just form an AMR and make 6-dc into the AMR then pull it tight to get a semi-circle.

You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern.

Hope all you lovely souls enjoy crocheting this Teddy bear (or froggy) bottle holder.

Do share with us your project in the comment section or on our Facebook page should you decide to crochet one for yourself or your loved ones.

Till then,

TTFN~ Cheers!

June 17, 2021

Standing Crewmate Keychain Crochet Pattern

By SympleCrafts ¶ Posted in Free Crochet Patterns ¶ Tagged Amigurumi, Among US, Free Crochet Pattern, Keychain Crochet Pattern, Simple Crochet Pattern ¶ 5 Comments

The height of this crewmate is about 5.5cm/2.2”. I am using 15 WPI milk cotton yarn and a 2mm crochet hook for this pattern.

Difficulty: Beginner/Basic

Time Taken: 30 min

Abbreviations (US Terminology)

AMR – Adjustable Magic Ring

BLO/FLO – Back/Front Loop Only

Ch – Chain

inc – Single Crochet Increase

sc – Single Crochet

slst – Slip Stitch

HEAD/BODY (Yarn Thickness: 17 WPI)

Round 1

Step 1: Ch 6

Step 2: 3-sc into the 2nd chain from hook , 3-sc, 3-sc into the last loop (9)

Step 3: Working on the opposite side of the chain, 3-sc, slst into the first sc stitch

Round 2: (inc, 5-sc) x 2 (14)

Round 3: 14-sc

Round 4: 3-sc, inc, 6-sc, inc, 3-sc (16)

Round 5-7: 16-sc

Round 8: (3-sc, inc) x 4 (20)

Round 9: 20-sc

Round 10

Step 1: 5-sc

Step 2: Join the 6th and 17th stitch together with 1-slst, then join the 7th and 16th stitch with 1-slst

Step 3: 8-sc, 1-slst back into the 2 joined slip stitches made in Step 2, 3-sc (11)

Before we crochet the legs, you can start stuffing fiberfill into the body. Excluding the 4 single crochet stitches in the middle, each leg will have a circle of 8 single crochet stitches. With that in mind, let’s continue with the legs.

FIRST LEG

Round 1: 5-sc, 1-slst into the joined stitch, Ch-1, 3-sc (8)

Round 2: 5-sc, skip the Ch-1 stitch, 3-sc (8)

Round 3: 8-sc

Round 4: 8-sc (BLO), cut and leave a tail to close off by picking the outer loops of the 8 stitches. Stuff the leg before tightening the yarn tail .

SECOND LEG

You can insert your hook into any of the stitches, just remember to make a slip stitch and Chain 1 when you reach the center part. In this pattern, I’ve inserted my hook into the 2nd stitch from the center.

Round 1: Ch-1, 1-sc into the same stitch as Chain 1, 6-sc, 1-slst into the joined stitch, Ch-1, 1-sc (8)

Round 2: 7-sc, skip the Ch-1 stitch, 1-sc (8)

Round 3: 8-sc

Round 4: 8-sc (BLO), cut and leave a tail to close off.

FACE MASK

Using White color yarn, Ch-5

Round 1

Step 1: 1-sc into the 2nd chain from hook, 3-sc, change to Light Blue color in your last yarn over (4)

Step 2: inc into the same stitch, 2-sc, inc into the last loop, slst into the first sc stitch (6)

Round 2: (1-sc, inc) x 5, change to Black color in your last yarn over (15)

Round 3: 15-sc, slst into the first sc stitch, cut and leave a tail for attaching purpose

BACKPACK

Using the same color as the head/body, Ch-5

Row 1: 1-sc into the 2nd chain from hook, 3-sc, Ch-1, turn (4)

Row 2-3: 4-sc, Ch-1, turn

From this point, we will crochet along the perimeter of the workpiece

Round 1

Step 1: 1-sc into the same stitch as Chain 1, 2-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1, 1-sc) into the last stitch the TOP side (5)

Step 2: Rotate your workpiece until the SIDE 1 is facing up

Step 3: 2-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1, 1-sc) into the last stitch of SIDE 1 (4)

Step 4: Rotate your workpiece until the BOTTOM side is facing up, Repeat Step 3

Step 5: Rotate your workpiece until the SIDE 2 is facing up, 2-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1) into the last stitch, slst back into the first sc stitch (3)

Round 2: Ch-1, 20-sc (BLO), slst back into the first sc stitch (Note: These 20 stitches include the 4 Ch-1 back loops at the four corners)

Round 3: Ch 1, 20-slst (FLO), 1-slst back into the first Chain 1, cut and leave a tail for sewing

EGG HAT (DESIGN 1)

Using Orange or Yellow color, form an AMR

Round 1: 8-sc into AMR

Round 2: (FLO) 8-sc, change to White color in your last yarn over

Round 3: (BLO) 8-sc

Round 4: (2-sc, inc) x 2, 2-inc (12)

Round 5

Step 1: 1-slst, Ch-1, 1-sc into the same stitch as Chain 1, Ch-2, 2-slst (4)

Step 2: Ch-1, 1-sc into the next stitch, Ch-2, 1-slst (2)

Step 3: Ch-1, 1-sc into the same stitch as Chain 1, Ch-2, 2slst (3)

Step 4: Ch-1, 1-sc into the next stitch, Ch-1, 1-sc into the same stitch as Chain 1 (2)

Step 5: Ch-2, 2-slst, Ch-1, 1-sc into the next stitch, slst back to the first slip stitch, cut and leave a long tail for sewing (3)

EGG HAT (DESIGN 2)

Using Orange or Yellow color, form an AMR

Round 1-4: Same as Design 1

Round 5

Step 1: 1-slst, Ch-1, 1-sc into the next stitch, Ch-2, 1-slst (3)

Step 2: (Ch-1, 1-sc into the next stitch, Ch-2, 1-slst) x 4, 1-slst into the last stitch, slst back into the first slip stitch, cut and leave a long tail for sewing (9)

ASSEMBLING

When you view your workpiece from the top, the top 2 rows are only 1 round (see photo below), do not consider it as 2 rounds when you are positioning your facemask and backpack. Instead of sewing along the perimeter at the beginning, I would make a simple stitch at the four corners of the facemask and backpack in order to secure the position before stuffing (if needed).