Free Crochet Pattern: Teddy Bear Bottle Holder Using Nipper Yarn

After completing the bunny bottle holder, I crocheted one more (there are 4 of them..🤣) suitable for the same bottle size. In the bunny bottle holder, I was using mole yarn with a weightage of 5-WPI and I did mention in my post that if you are crocheting that using a yarn weightage, you can increase it using the standard incremental formula for the base. Just to give you all a clearer picture, I decided to use a thinner yarn to crochet this bottle cover so that you can see the difference.

Without further adieu, let’s begin to crochet!

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Difficulty: Basic (for crocheting), Intermediate (needle sculpting the head portion)

Time Taken: 30-45 min

Abbreviations (US Terminology)

BLO – Back Loops Only

Ch – Chain

dc – Double Crochet

hdc – Half-Double Crochet

sc2tog – Single Crochet 2 stitches Together

sc – Single Crochet

scinc – Single Crochet Increase (crocheting 2 stitches into one stitch)

slst – Slip Stitch

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TOOLS AND MATERIALS

I am using 100% polyester nipper yarn with a weightage of 8 to 10-WPI (Bella Baby) and a 5mm crochet hook for this bottle holder. The bottle holder has a base diameter of 8.5cm and a height of

FRONT: 13.5cm if you measure it from the head of the teddy bear to the bottom

BACK AND SIDE: 11.5cm excluding the height of the teddy bear’s head

The length of the ears is 2cm.

Other materials: Big eye needle, 2 safety eyes (5mm) with studs, and 1 safety nose preferably with stud (10mm)

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Things to take note of during crocheting this pattern:

• A stitch marker is recommended (especially for the first few rounds) in the first stitch crocheting using this yarn even if we are going to doing a “slip stitch” at the end of each round and a “Chain 1” to begin a new round.
• The first stitch of each round is to be crocheted into the same stitch as “Chain 1”
• I would be using more than 1 stitch marker to indicate some slip stitches as a guide when we are doing stitch counting because the slip stitches are often easily overlooked. 

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BASE

Round 1: Ch-2, 6-sc into the second loop from hook, slip stitch back into the first stitch (6)

Round 2: Ch-1, 6-scinc, slip stitch back into first stitch (12)

Round 3: Ch-1, 12-scinc, slip stitch back into first stitch (24)

Round 4: Ch-1, (3-sc, scinc) x 6, slip stitch back into first stitch (30)

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In this pattern, you can see that the base of my bottle holder is completed in 4 rounds instead of 3 rounds when I was crocheting the Bunny bottle holder. Do note that it is okay to have the base slightly bigger or smaller than the bottle base.

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BODY

Round 5: Ch-1, (BLO) 30-sc, slip stitch back to first stitch (30)

Round 6-7: Ch-1, 30-sc, slip stitch back to first stitch (30)

Round 8: Ch-1, 28-sc, sc2tog, slip stitch back to first stitch (29)

Round 9-10: Ch-1, 29-sc, slip stitch back to first stitch (29)

Round 11: Ch-1, (12-sc, sc2tog) x 2, 1-sc, slip stitch back to first stitch (27)

Round 12-14: Ch-1, 27-sc, slip stitch back to first stitch (27)

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If your bottle is taller than 9.5cm, just increase the rounds of 27-sc and estimate enough space for the last three rounds where the head and ears are crocheted.

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HEAD AND EARS

Round 15

Step 1: Ch-1, 11-sc, 1-slst (place a stitch marker into this slip stitch – “ST-1”) skip one stitch (12)

Step 2: 6-hdc into the next stitch, skip one stitch, 1-slst (place a stitch marker into this slip stitch – “ST-2”) (7)

Step 3: 11-sc, slip stitch back into first stitch (11)

Round 16

Step 1: Ch-1, 11-sc, 1-slst into the stitch marked by “ST1” (place the stitch marker back into the slip stitch) (12)

Step 2: 6-scinc, 1-slst into the stitch marked by “ST2” (place the stitch marker back into the slip stitch) (13)

Step 3: 11-sc, slip stitch back to first stitch (11)

Round 17

Step 1: Ch-1, 11-slst, 1-slst into the stitch marked by“ST1” in Round 16 (12)

Step 2: 2-slst up the slope, (1-sc, 2-hdc, 1-slst) into the next stitch (6)

Step 3: 6-slst, (1-sc,2-hdc, 1-slst) into the next stitch (10)

Step 4: 2-slst down the slope, 1-slst into the stitch marked by “ST2” in Round 16 (3)

Step 5: 11-slst, slip stitch back into the first Ch-1. (11)

Round 18: Make a final round of slip stitches. Do not slip stitch along the ears but insert your hook into the center hole (the stitch where you crochet the ears in Round 17) so that you can get the effect of the ear behind the head (See photos below). After completing the slip stitching, cut and weave in the tail.

OPTIONAL ITEMS:

As this bottle already comes with a strap, I don’t have to crochet any straps for it. However, there is a hook on the back of the bottle so I decided to make a strap to further secure the holder to the bottle (just in case).

AFTER COMPLETING ROUND 18:

1. Make a chain with a length of 10cm and single crochet all the way back, weave the tail in.
2. You can attach the buckle at the tip by making a few single crochet into the bucket before crocheting back up the strap.
3. Leave a long tail after finishing crocheting the strap, and bring the tail to the body in order to attach the other part of the bucket using the tail.
4. If you are not comfortable with doing the above, you can always sew the buckets separately after finishing crocheting the strap.

ENHANCING THE HEAD VIA NEEDLE SCULPTING

If you are still new to amigurumi, this is the part that requires some experience in crocheting amigurumi. It is difficult to describe the process but I can provide some of the basic steps in this tutorial.

I would twirl the yarn around the stitches (instead of inserting the needle through the stitches) of the ears and the top part of the head to make them rounder. As the nipple yarn is very soft, by doing so, you can “stiffen” the edges so that the ears can stand up better and you will get that “spiral effect” as seen in the photo below.

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THERE ARE NO MISTAKES IN ART

Maria Renteria

To be honest, this is the first time I am crocheting a completed workpiece using this yarn, therefore, the process of producing this cutie was quite a bittersweet experience. Initially, I was planning to just sew in two ear patches, just like what I’ve done with the Bunny holder, and I’ve gotten a frog/turtle (that’s what my sister told me) 😣!

With proper needle sculpting, I think this froggy might just work. Unfortunately, I didn’t have any green nipple yarn therefore I had to revert back to Teddy Bear. If this design interests you, why not just give it a try? For the eye patches, just form an AMR and make 6-dc into the AMR then pull it tight to get a semi-circle.

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You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern.

Hope all you lovely souls enjoy crocheting this Teddy bear (or froggy) bottle holder.

Do share with us your project in the comment section or on our Facebook page should you decide to crochet one for yourself or your loved ones.

Till then,

TTFN~ Cheers!

Free Crochet Pattern: Simple Bunny Bottle Holder Using Mole Yarn

Recently, a friend bought some water bottles for her kids only to realize that the material was glass instead of plastic. Therefore, she asked me to crochet ‘clothing’ for the bottles. To be honest, I’ve never crocheted a bottle holder and this is actually my first time trying. Since the outcome of the workpiece turned out quite okay, I might as well share this pattern with all you lovely souls out there just in case you have similar water bottles as hers.

Just like T-shirt yarn, mole yarn is one that I would try to refrain from using despite seeing so many beautiful amigurumi workpieces crocheted with this yarn. However, I do have a few balls of mole yarns lying around (bought them for some non-crocheting projects and some out of impulse from big sales held at yarn stores), so I decided to try using them to crochet the holder.

Do bear in mind that this pattern is totally based on the dimensions of the bottle I have. However, you can simply adjust the number of stitches and rounds accordingly unless you have a bottle with similar dimensions or use the same yarn weightage and hook size as mine.

Without further adieu, let’s begin to crochet!

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Difficulty: Basic

Time Taken: 30 min

Abbreviations (US Terminology)

BLO – Back Loops Only

Ch – Chain

dc – Double Crochet

hdc – Half-Double Crochet

sc2tog – Single Crochet 2 stitches Together

sc – Single Crochet

scinc – Single Crochet Increase (crocheting 2 stitches into one stitch)

slst – Slip Stitch

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I am using Mole Yarn with a weightage of 5-WPI (bought from Daiso) and a 7mm crochet hook for this bottle holder. The bottle holder has a base diameter of 8.5cm and a height of

FRONT: 11cm if you measure it from the head of the bunny to the bottom

BACK AND SIDE: 9.5cm excluding the height of the bunny’s head

The length of the ears is 5cm

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Things to take note of during crocheting this pattern:

• A stitch marker is recommended (especially for the first few rounds) in the first stitch crocheting using this yarn even if we are going to doing a “slip stitch” at the end of each round and a “Chain 1” to begin a new round.
• The first stitch of each round is to be crocheted into the same stitch as “Chain 1”

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BASE

Round 1: Ch-2, 6-sc into the second loop from hook, slip stitch back into the first stitch (6)

Round 2: Ch-1, 6-scinc, slip stitch back into first stitch (12)

Round 3: Ch-1, 12-scinc, slip stitch back into first stitch (24)

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The base of my bottle holder is completed in 3 rounds, having a diameter of 8.5cm. If your bottle has a bigger base than 8.5cm, just continue crocheting your base using (3-sc, inc) x 6 (30), (4-sc, inc) x 6 (36), and so on until the size matches your bottle. It is okay to have the base slightly bigger or smaller than the bottle’s.

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BODY

Round 4: Ch-1, (BLO) 24-sc, slip stitch back to first stitch (24)

Round 5-6: Ch-1, 24-sc, slip stitch back to first stitch (24)

Round 7: Ch-1, 22-sc, sc2tog, slip stitch back to first stitch (23)

Round 8-9: Ch-1, 23-sc, slip stitch back to first stitch (23)

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If your bottle is taller than 9.5cm, just increase the rounds of 23-sc and estimate enough space for the last two rounds where the head and ears are crocheted.

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BUNNY HEAD AND EARS

Round 10: Ch-1, 10-sc, skip one stitch, 6-dc into the next stitch, skip one stitch, 10-sc, slip stitch back into first stitch (26)

Round 11

Step 1: Ch-1, 10-slst, Ch-6 (10)

Step 2: (1-dc, 1-hdc) into 3rd loop from hook, 2-sc, 1-slst (5)

Step 3: 6-slst along Round 10, Ch-6 (6)

Step 4: (1-dc, 1-hdc) into 3rd loop from hook, 2-sc, 1-slst (5)

Step 5: 10-slst along Round 10, slip stitch back to first stitch, cut and weave in tail. (10)

Simple Bunny Bottle Holder (without straps or inner ear patch)

OPTIONAL ITEMS:

As this bottle already comes with a strap, I don’t have to crochet any straps for it. However, there is a hook on the back of the bottle so I decided to make a strap to further secure the holder to the bottle (just in case).

AFTER COMPLETING ROUND 11:

1. Make a chain with a length of 10cm and slip stitch all the way back, weave the tail in.
2. Attach the buckle at the tip of the strap and the holder (see photos below)

INNER EAR PATCHES (MAKE 2)

For the inner ear patches, I am using milk cotton yarn (15-WPI) and a 2.5mm crochet hook. The length of the patch is around 4.5cm.

Step 1: Ch-12, 3-dc into the 3rd loop from hook (3)

Step 2: 1-dc, 8-hdc, Ch-1, leave a long tail for sewing and pull the tail through the Chain-1 loop (9)

I am using the wrong sides of the patches for the front during attaching them to the ears. Try to sew the stitches underneath the rim of the ears so that the patch would look like the one you see in the photo.

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You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern.

Hope all you lovely souls enjoy crocheting this simple bunny bottle holder.

Do share with us your project in the comment section or on our Facebook page should you decide to crochet one for yourself or your loved ones.

Till then,

TTFN~ Cheers!

Simple Autumn Inspired Coaster Pattern for Beginners

Good day to all lovely souls out there!

After the latest listing of my Mini Cube House Amigurumi Pattern, I decided to go back to coaster patterns. Actually I was planning to continue with an uncompleted pattern but after a few rounds of testing, a new coaster idea pops up (will be listing it in my Etsy shop pretty soon) and this has indirectly led me to having some ideas for simple and elegant coaster patterns.

I have been experimenting on different type of stitches like double crochet stitch (dc), half-double crochet stitch (hdc) and extended single crochet stitch to get different textures for the base of the coasters. If you are interested to know more, you can find them at them in my Etsy shop (with detailed instructions and photos).

In this post, I will be sharing a simple pattern using double crochet stitch as its base. I love mixing with yarns in my crocheting, so this in pattern, I am using three different yarn with colors inspired by Autumn. Hope you will enjoy crocheting it.

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Difficulty: Basic

Time Taken: 20-30 min

Abbreviations (US Terminology)

AMR – Adjustable Magic Ring

BLO – Back Loops Only

Ch – Chain

dc – Double Crochet

dcinc – Increase [Crocheting 2 stitches into 1 stitch]

sc – Single Crochet

slst – Slip Stitch

y/o – Yarn Over

I am using the following yarns and crocheting using 2mm hook, the dimension is approximately 12cm x 12cm:

• Color 1: Milk Cotton Yarn (15-WPI)
• Color 2: Hemp Yarn (21-WPI)
• Color 3: Acrylic Yarn (17-WPI)

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NOTE:

If you prefer a nicer color transition, I would suggest you to cut and weave in your tail at Round 3 and Round 4 instead of yarning over with the new color.

Picot stitch will be used in this pattern, if you are not sure what a picot stitch is, you can find instructions in the web or YouTube videos.

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Using Color 1, form an AMR

Round 1: Ch-3 (use this as your first dc stitch), 11-dc, slip stitch into the top loop of Chain 3 (12)

Round 2: Ch-2, 12-dcinc, slip stitch into the first dc stitch (24)

Round 3: Ch-2, 24-dcinc, slip stitch into the first dc stitch and y/o with Color 2 (48)

Round 4 (BLO): Ch-2, (11-dc, dcinc) x 4, slip stitch into the first dc stitch and y/o with Color 3 (52)

Round 5: Ch-1, 52-slst, slip stitch back into the first slst (52) (Take note of the tension in this round, do not make it too tight or else your workpiece might curl up)

Round 6

Step 1: (Ch-5, skip next 2 stitches, 1-slst into the back loop of next stitch) x 3

Step 2 (BLO): 3-sc, 1-slst

Step 3: Repeat Step 1-2 another 3 times

Round 7

Step 1: (4-sc into the Chain 5 space, Ch-1, make a picot stitch, 4-sc back into the Chain 5 space) x 3

Step 2: 2-slst, (Ch-3, 2-slst back) x 3, slip stitch back into the same stitch

Step 3: Repeat Step 1-2 another 3 times, slip stitch back into the first stitch, cut and weave in tail

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You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern.

Hope all you lovely souls enjoy crocheting this simple Autumn inspired coaster.

Do share with us your project in the comment section or in our Facebook page should you decided to crochet one for yourself or your loved ones.

Till then,

TTFN~ Cheers!

Crewmate Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern

The difference in height between our Crewmate Doll and Standing Crewmate Keychain

Good day to all lovely souls out there!

In this post, I will share with you all the pattern of the Crewmate Amigurumi Doll, which is about 8.5cm if you were to use the yarn thickness and hook size that I am using for this pattern i.e. a yarn weightage of 15 WPI (any type of yarn) and a 2mm crochet hook.

In this pattern, the head, body and legs will be crocheted from top to bottom and in rounds without any slip stitching at the end of each round.

Difficulty: Advance Beginner/Intermediate

Time Taken: 45 min – 1hr

Abbreviations (US Terminology)

AMR – Adjustable Magic Ring

BLO/FLO – Back/Front Loop Only

Ch – Chain

dec – Single Crochet Decrease

inc – Single Crochet Increase

sc – Single Crochet

slst – Slip Stitch

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HEAD AND BODY

Round 1

Step 1: Ch-8

Step 2: 2-sc into the 2nd chain from the hook, 5-sc, 2-sc into the last chain (9)

Step 3: Working on the opposite side of the chain, 5-sc, slst into the first sc stitch

Round 2: inc, 5-sc, 2-inc, 5-sc, inc (18)

Round 3: 18-sc

Round 4: (5-sc, inc) x 3 (21)

Round 5: 21-sc

Round 6: (6-sc, inc) x 3 (24)

Round 7-9: 24-sc

Round 10: 1-sc, inc, 8-sc, inc, 2-sc, inc, 8-sc, inc, 1-sc (28)

Round 11-14: 28-sc

Round 15: (13-sc, inc) x 2 (30)

Round 16: 30-sc

The head and body is completed after Round 16 but do not cut the yarn as we are going to divide the stitches for the two legs in Round 17.

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LEGS DIVISION

In Round 17, we will be dividing the body into two portions. Since there are 30 stitches for the body and if you flatten the workpiece, you should have 15 stitches on each side (front and back). Excluding the 6 stitches for the center portion, each leg will have a circle of 12 stitches. With that in mind, let’s continue with the instruction.

Round 17

Step 1: 8-sc, Ch-1, 1-slst (BLO) the 9th and 26th stitches together (8)

Step 2: 1-slst (BLO) the 10th and 25th stitches together

Step 3: 1-slst (BLO) the 11th and 24th stitches together, Ch-1

Step 4: 12-sc, Ch-1

Step 5: 1-slst (FLO) the 11th and 24th stitches together

Step 6: 1-slst (FLO) the 10th and 25th stitches together

Step 7: 1-slst (FLO) the 9th and 26th stitches together, Ch-1

Step 8: 4-sc

Alternatively, you can crochet the 3 slip stitches directly into the stitches instead of working with the FLO/BLO. I am using this method because it would be easier to crochet the legs as the stitches (for the legs) close to the center would not get tucked in by the slip stitches.

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FIRST LEG

Do not stuff the body yet but continue to crochet the first leg, which is the 12-stitch circle with the stitch marker and we will reset the round number for the legs.

Round 1-4: 12-sc

The leg is not completed yet at this point, insert a stitch marker to secure the last loop (See photo below). Either using the other end tail of the yarn ball or another new ball of yarn, we will continue with the second leg.

SECOND LEG

You can start your first stitch at any stitch but I prefer to insert my hook into the stitch under the first stitch of second leg (See photo below)

Round 1: Ch-1, 1-sc into the same stitch, 11-sc (12)

Round 2-4: 12-sc

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CLOSING OFF THE LEGS

You can start stuffing in at this point. After stuffing, we will close off both legs in Round 5.

Round 5: (2-sc, inc) x 3 (9)

Leave a tail and close off by picking the outer loops with the needle, then tighten the yarn to close the gap, tug the bottom in to flatten the sole when you weave in the tail. There might be a small gap between the slip stitch and the first round of the legs, especially the second one. It is okay, just make a few simple sewing stitches (see photo) to close it off during the weave-in of the legs.

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FACE MASK

Using White color yarn, Ch-5

Round 1

Step 1: 1-sc into the 2nd chain from hook, 3-sc, change to Blue Color, inc into the same stitch (6)

Step 2: Working on the opposite side of the chain, 2-sc, inc (4)

Round 2: (1-sc, inc) x 2 (FLO), (1-sc, inc) x 3 (15)

Round 3: 15-sc (FLO), change to Black color in your last yarn over

Round 4: 15-sc (FLO), slst into the first stitch, cut and leave a long tail for sewing purpose

The face mask is oblong by default. If you want a rectangular frame, just stretch out the four corners with pins, securing the corners with simple sewing stitches before closing up.

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BACK PACK

The back pack for the doll has a slightly different shape from the keychain patterns. I try to make it similar to the one I’ve seen in those crewmate drawings.

Using the same yarn color as the body, Ch 5

Row 1: 1-sc into the 2nd chain from hook, 3-sc, Ch-1, turn (4)

Row 2: 4-sc, Ch-1, turn

Row 3: inc, 2-sc, inc, Ch-1, turn (6)

Row 4: 6-sc, Ch-1, turn

Row 5: 6-sc, Ch-2, turn

After completing Row 5, we will be crocheting around the perimeter of the workpiece (In rounds).

Round 1

Step 1: 5-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1, 1-sc) into the last stitch (7)

Step 2: Rotate your workpiece until the SIDE 1 is facing up

Step 3: 1-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1, 1-sc) into the next stitch, 2-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1, 1-sc) into the last stitch (7)

Step 4: Rotate your workpiece until the BOTTOM side is facing up

Step 5: 2-sc, (1-sc, Ch 1, 1-sc) into the last loop (4)

Step 6: Rotate your workpiece until the SIDE 2 is facing up

Step 7: 2-sc, (1-sc, Ch 1, 1-sc) into the next stitch, 2-sc, slst into the top loop of first chain 2 (6)

After finishing Round 1, you should have 6 corners made when you crocheted (1-sc, Ch-1, 1-sc) and the shape of your backpack should be the same as the one shown in the photo. In Round 2 (back loops only), you will need to crochet into the back loops of these six “Ch-1 corners”.

Round 2: Ch-1, 1-sc into the same stitch (BLO), 29-sc (BLO), slst back into the first sc stitch (30)

Round 3: Ch-1, 30-slst (FLO), slst back into the first chain 1, cut and leave a long tail for sewing purposes.

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ASSEMBLING

When you view your workpiece from the top, the top 2 rows are only 1 round, do not consider it as 2 rounds when you are positioning your facemask and backpack.

For the backpack, the narrower row (with 4 stitches) should be the top part. Position it on the 6th round (recommended). Use a simple sewing stitch on the sides to secure its position, then stuff in the fiberfill before stitching it fully.

You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern.

Hope all you lovely souls enjoy crocheting this cute little Sitting Crewmate keychain.

Do share with us your project in the comment section or in our Facebook page should you decided to crochet one for yourself or your loved ones.

Till then,

TTFN~ Cheers!

Sitting Mini Crewmate Keychain Crochet Pattern (Part 2)

Good day to all lovely souls out there! If you’ve already tried the first method of this sitting crewmate, I do hope you have enjoyed crocheting it. In this post, the body, head and legs will be crocheted into one piece and. The soles of the legs will be flat instead of pointed.

Using a yarn weightage of 15 WPI (any type of yarn) and a 2mm crochet hook, you can create a sitting crewmate with a height of 4.5cm/1.8”. Using thinner yarns (about 19 WPI), you can create a tiny one with a height of 3.5cm/1.4”.

Difficulty: Advance Beginner/Intermediate

Time Taken: 45 min – 1hr

Abbreviations (US Terminology)

AMR – Adjustable Magic Ring

BLO/FLO – Back/Front Loop Only

Ch – Chain

dec – Single Crochet Decrease

inc – Single Crochet Increase

sc – Single Crochet

slst – Slip Stitch

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HEAD AND BODY

Round 1

Step 1: Ch-6

Step 2: 3-sc into the 2nd chain from the hook. 3-sc, 3-sc into the last chain (9)

Step 3: Working on the opposite side of the chain, 3-sc, slst into the first sc stitch

Round 2: (inc, 5-sc) x 2 (14)

Round 3: 14-sc

Round 4: 3-sc, inc, 6-sc, inc, 3-sc (16)

Round 5-6: 16-sc

Round 7: (inc, 7-sc) x 2 (18)

Round 8: 18-sc

Round 9: 4-sc, inc, 8-sc, inc, 4-sc (20)

Round 10: 20-sc

In Round 11, we will divide the body into two portions. Since there are 20 stitches for the body, there will be 10 stitches in both sections (front and back). 

Round 11 (BACK SECTION)

Step 1: 6-sc

Step 2: Pick up the front loop of the 7th stitch with your hook, slip stitch this loop together with the 18th stitch

Step 3: Pick up the front loop of the 8th stitch with your hook, slip stitch this loop together with the 17th stitch

Step 4: 8-sc

Round 11 (FRONT SECTION): 1-slst into the two center joint stitches made in Round 11 (Back Section), 2-sc

The head and body is completed after Round 11 but do not cut the yarn yet.

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HEAD/BODY STUFFING

Before we crochet the legs, we need to stuff the fiberfill into the body and close it up from the center part of the body via sewing. 

• Insert the needle into one of the center slip stitches, leave a tail in the middle so that you can use it to sew the other side. 

• Sew along the gap between Round 9 and 10 and adjust the stuffing (if needed) as you sew.

• Do not over stuff the body so that the sides can be flipped up after stitching.

• Leave the tails at the side of the body. We will use them to stitch up the sides during the bending of the legs.

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FIRST LEG

Excluding the 4 center stitches, each leg will have a circle of 8 stitches.

Round 1-4: 8-sc

Round 5: 8-sc (BLO) , cut and leave a tail to close off by picking the outer loops of the 8 stitches with your needle after stuffing

SECOND LEG

You can insert your hook into any of the stitches. In this pattern, I’ve inserted my hook into the first stitch from the center with the back section facing me.

Round 1: Ch-1, 1-sc into the same stitch as Chain 1, 7-sc (8)

Round 2-4: 8-sc

Round 5: 8-sc (BLO) , cut and leave a tail to close off by picking the outer loops of the 8 stitches with your needle after stuffing

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STUFFING AND POSITIONING THE LEGS

Start stuffing the legs once you have completed crocheting the 2nd leg. Make sure that the leg is able to bend at the stitched joint before closing off and tucking in Round 5 to flatten the bottom part during weaving in.

During weaving in, bring the yarn tail to the front part of the legs. Bend the leg and secure the position by stitching it to the body. Then stitch up along the sides (outer and inner part of the legs) as according to your preferences.

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FACE MASK

Using White color yarn, Ch-5

Round 1

Step 1: 1-sc into the 2nd chain from hook, 3-sc, change to Light Blue color in your last yarn over (4)

Step 2: inc into the same stitch, 2-sc, inc into the last loop, slst into the first sc stitch (6)

Round 2: (1-sc, inc) x 5, change to Black color in your last yarn over (15)

Round 3: 15-sc, slst into the first sc stitch, cut and leave a tail for attaching purpose

BACK PACK

For the back pack meant for our sitting crewmate, it is slightly different from the standing crewmate because I made it a little wider so that it can act as a support for the body.

Using the same yarn color as the body, Ch 6

Row 1: 1-sc into the 2nd chain from hook, 4-sc, Ch-1, turn (5)

Row 2-3: 5-sc, Ch-1, turn

From this point, we will crochet along the perimeter of the workpiece.

Round 1

Step 1: 1-sc into same stitch as Chain 1, 3-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1, 1-sc) into the last stitch (6)

Step 2: Rotate your workpiece until the SIDE 1 is facing up

Step 3: 3-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1, 1-sc) into the last stitch of SIDE 1 (5)

Step 4: Rotate your workpiece until the BOTTOM side is facing up, Repeat Step 3

Step 5: Rotate your workpiece until the SIDE 2 is facing up, 3-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1) into the last stitch, slst back into the first sc stitch (4)

Round 2: Ch-1, 24-sc (BLO), slst back into the first sc stitch (Note: These 24 stitches include the 4 Ch-1 back loops at the four corners)

Round 3: Ch 1, 24-slst (FLO), 1-slst back into the first Chain 1, cut and leave a tail for sewing

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ASSEMBLING

When you view your workpiece from the top, the top 2 rows are only 1 round, do not consider it as 2 rounds when you are positioning your facemask and backpack. Instead of sewing along the perimeter at the beginning, I would make a simple stitch at the four corners of the facemask and backpack in order to secure the position before stuffing (if needed).

You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern.

Hope all you lovely souls enjoy crocheting this cute little Sitting Crewmate keychain.

Do share with us your project in the comment section or in our Facebook page should you decided to crochet one for yourself or your loved ones.

Till then,

TTFN~ Cheers!