My First Teddy and Definitely Won’t be My Last…


The name “Teddy” actually comes from former United States President Theodore Roosevelt, who was commonly known as “Teddy” when he refused to shoot an exhausted and tied down black bear during a hunting trip in 1902 and instructed that the bear be killed to put it out of its misery.

Death is not the greatest loss in life.

The greatest loss is what dies inside us while we live.

Norman Cousins

The incident soon became the topic of a political cartoon by Clifford Berryman in The Washington Post on November 16, 1902. When Morris Michtom saw the drawing of Roosevelt, he was inspired to create a teddy bear. After sending a bear to Roosevelt and receiving permission to use his name, the toys were an immediate success and Michtom founded the Ideal Novelty and Toy Co.

Even till this day, teddy bears are among the most popular gifts for children and are often given to adults to signify love, affection, congratulations, or sympathy. Perhaps every lovely soul who crochets would have a teddy bear project in his/her to-do list.

As for me, it happens to be my first amigurumi project.

A little ambitious for an amigurumi noob back in 2015, who had ONE crochet hook (a Japanese crochet hook size 1/0-2/0) and some left over acrylic yarns huh? Well, my guts told me to go ahead anyway and found myself a cute teddy bear tutorial on YouTube.

Their written pattern can be found HERE

TADA~ MY FIRST AMIGURUMI TEDDY BEAR!

πŸ˜‘I know, totally no resemblance to the ones shown in tutorial.

Well, like I mentioned earlier, I only had one Japanese crochet hook (1/0-2/0) and some left over acrylic yarns during that time. So this cutie was stuffed with toilet paper (not joking) and the eyes were glass beads instead of safety eyes. It was very discouraging when the outcome was not the same as the one shown in the tutorial (nothing like a Teddy.. LOL) so, I stopped crocheting amigurumi for a while and went back to crocheting bags. Then in 2016, I decided to try again and started with something smaller — a snail.

My second attempt in amigurumi
(We will Get There)

Well, at least this one looked like a snail huh? I think there is nothing wrong with being ambitious, but when it comes to crafting, unless you are one of the super talented ones, it is better to take small simple steps during the early stage.

Great things are not done by impulse, but by a series of small things brought together.

Vincent Van Gogh
My third amigurumi – A pig piglet
(Shades of Pink)

After completing my third amigurumi, I started my journey in “bringing a series of small things together”. There were ups and downs along the way, with many mental debates on whether I should change my path to crocheting instead. Eventually I started my Esty shop in 2018 and have received unconditional supports from my family and friends. I am very thankful to be still hanging on at this moment.

Just a few days ago, after updating my shop and wondering what I should do next, something came up and I decided to crochet that Teddy bear again. Using the same crochet hook and a similar yarn but this time, I’ve had all the materials needed.

Same pattern but different outcomes?

From this “experiment”, I realized that in the world of amigurumi, the skill that we’ve acquired is not really only about crocheting but how we “sculpt” all our crocheted components.

I have to admit that assembling the components is still the most intimidating part for me but ironically, it is the very same thing that we need to master well in order to give “life” to all these cuties!

Sometimes you have to do what you don’t like to get to where you want to be.

Tori Amos

Thank you for reading this post and have a wonderful day ahead! Do stay safe, healthy and happy!

Till then,

Cheers & TTFN~ πŸ˜€

Crewmate Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern


The difference in height between our Crewmate Doll and Standing Crewmate Keychain

Good day to all lovely souls out there!

In this post, I will share with you all the pattern of the Crewmate Amigurumi Doll, which is about 8.5cm if you were to use the yarn thickness and hook size that I am using for this pattern i.e. a yarn weightage of 15 WPI (any type of yarn) and a 2mm crochet hook.

In this pattern, the head, body and legs will be crocheted from top to bottom and in rounds without any slip stitching at the end of each round.

Difficulty: Advance Beginner/Intermediate

Time Taken: 45 min – 1hr

Abbreviations (US Terminology)

AMR β€“ Adjustable Magic Ring

BLO/FLO β€“ Back/Front Loop Only

Ch β€“ Chain

dec β€“ Single Crochet Decrease

inc β€“ Single Crochet Increase

sc β€“ Single Crochet

slst β€“ Slip Stitch


HEAD AND BODY

Round 1

Step 1: Ch-8

Step 2: 2-sc into the 2nd chain from the hook, 5-sc, 2-sc into the last chain (9)

Step 3: Working on the opposite side of the chain, 5-sc, slst into the first sc stitch

Round 2: inc, 5-sc, 2-inc, 5-sc, inc (18)

Round 3: 18-sc

Round 4: (5-sc, inc) x 3 (21)

Round 5: 21-sc

Round 6: (6-sc, inc) x 3 (24)

Round 7-9: 24-sc

Round 10: 1-sc, inc, 8-sc, inc, 2-sc, inc, 8-sc, inc, 1-sc (28)

Round 11-14: 28-sc

Round 15: (13-sc, inc) x 2 (30)

Round 16: 30-sc

The head and body is completed after Round 16 but do not cut the yarn as we are going to divide the stitches for the two legs in Round 17.


LEGS DIVISION

In Round 17, we will be dividing the body into two portions. Since there are 30 stitches for the body and if you flatten the workpiece, you should have 15 stitches on each side (front and back). Excluding the 6 stitches for the center portion, each leg will have a circle of 12 stitches. With that in mind, let’s continue with the instruction.

Round 17

Step 1: 8-sc, Ch-1, 1-slst (BLO) the 9th and 26th stitches together (8)

Step 2: 1-slst (BLO) the 10th and 25th stitches together

Step 3: 1-slst (BLO) the 11th and 24th stitches together, Ch-1

Step 4: 12-sc, Ch-1

Step 5: 1-slst (FLO) the 11th and 24th stitches together

Step 6: 1-slst (FLO) the 10th and 25th stitches together

Step 7: 1-slst (FLO) the 9th and 26th stitches together, Ch-1

Step 8: 4-sc

Alternatively, you can crochet the 3 slip stitches directly into the stitches instead of working with the FLO/BLO. I am using this method because it would be easier to crochet the legs as the stitches (for the legs) close to the center would not get tucked in by the slip stitches.


FIRST LEG

Do not stuff the body yet but continue to crochet the first leg, which is the 12-stitch circle with the stitch marker and we will reset the round number for the legs.

Round 1-4: 12-sc

The leg is not completed yet at this point, insert a stitch marker to secure the last loop (See photo below). Either using the other end tail of the yarn ball or another new ball of yarn, we will continue with the second leg.

SECOND LEG

You can start your first stitch at any stitch but I prefer to insert my hook into the stitch under the first stitch of second leg (See photo below)

Round 1: Ch-1, 1-sc into the same stitch, 11-sc (12)

Round 2-4: 12-sc


CLOSING OFF THE LEGS

You can start stuffing in at this point. After stuffing, we will close off both legs in Round 5.

Round 5: (2-sc, inc) x 3 (9)

Leave a tail and close off by picking the outer loops with the needle, then tighten the yarn to close the gap, tug the bottom in to flatten the sole when you weave in the tail. There might be a small gap between the slip stitch and the first round of the legs, especially the second one. It is okay, just make a few simple sewing stitches (see photo) to close it off during the weave-in of the legs.


FACE MASK

Using White color yarn, Ch-5

Round 1

Step 1: 1-sc into the 2nd chain from hook, 3-sc, change to Blue Color, inc into the same stitch (6)

Step 2: Working on the opposite side of the chain, 2-sc, inc (4)

Round 2: (1-sc, inc) x 2 (FLO), (1-sc, inc) x 3 (15)

Round 3: 15-sc (FLO), change to Black color in your last yarn over

Round 4: 15-sc (FLO), slst into the first stitch, cut and leave a long tail for sewing purpose

The face mask is oblong by default. If you want a rectangular frame, just stretch out the four corners with pins, securing the corners with simple sewing stitches before closing up.


BACK PACK

The back pack for the doll has a slightly different shape from the keychain patterns. I try to make it similar to the one I’ve seen in those crewmate drawings.

Using the same yarn color as the body, Ch 5

Row 1: 1-sc into the 2nd chain from hook, 3-sc, Ch-1, turn (4)

Row 2: 4-sc, Ch-1, turn

Row 3: inc, 2-sc, inc, Ch-1, turn (6)

Row 4: 6-sc, Ch-1, turn

Row 5: 6-sc, Ch-2, turn

After completing Row 5, we will be crocheting around the perimeter of the workpiece (In rounds).

Round 1

Step 1: 5-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1, 1-sc) into the last stitch (7)

Step 2: Rotate your workpiece until the SIDE 1 is facing up

Step 3: 1-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1, 1-sc) into the next stitch, 2-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1, 1-sc) into the last stitch (7)

Step 4: Rotate your workpiece until the BOTTOM side is facing up

Step 5: 2-sc, (1-sc, Ch 1, 1-sc) into the last loop (4)

Step 6: Rotate your workpiece until the SIDE 2 is facing up

Step 7: 2-sc, (1-sc, Ch 1, 1-sc) into the next stitch, 2-sc, slst into the top loop of first chain 2 (6)

After finishing Round 1, you should have 6 corners made when you crocheted (1-sc, Ch-1, 1-sc) and the shape of your backpack should be the same as the one shown in the photo. In Round 2 (back loops only), you will need to crochet into the back loops of these six β€œCh-1 corners”.

Round 2: Ch-1, 1-sc into the same stitch (BLO), 29-sc (BLO), slst back into the first sc stitch (30)

Round 3: Ch-1, 30-slst (FLO), slst back into the first chain 1, cut and leave a long tail for sewing purposes.


ASSEMBLING

When you view your workpiece from the top, the top 2 rows are only 1 round, do not consider it as 2 rounds when you are positioning your facemask and backpack.

For the backpack, the narrower row (with 4 stitches) should be the top part. Position it on the 6th round (recommended). Use a simple sewing stitch on the sides to secure its position, then stuff in the fiberfill before stitching it fully.

You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern.

Hope all you lovely souls enjoy crocheting this cute little Sitting Crewmate keychain.

Do share with us your project in the comment section or in our Facebook page should you decided to crochet one for yourself or your loved ones.

Till then,

TTFN~ Cheers!

Sitting Mini Crewmate Keychain Crochet Pattern (Part 2)


Good day to all lovely souls out there! If you’ve already tried the first method of this sitting crewmate, I do hope you have enjoyed crocheting it. In this post, the body, head and legs will be crocheted into one piece and. The soles of the legs will be flat instead of pointed.

Using a yarn weightage of 15 WPI (any type of yarn) and a 2mm crochet hook, you can create a sitting crewmate with a height of 4.5cm/1.8”. Using thinner yarns (about 19 WPI), you can create a tiny one with a height of 3.5cm/1.4”.

Difficulty: Advance Beginner/Intermediate

Time Taken: 45 min – 1hr

Abbreviations (US Terminology)

AMR β€“ Adjustable Magic Ring

BLO/FLO β€“ Back/Front Loop Only

Ch β€“ Chain

dec – Single Crochet Decrease

inc β€“ Single Crochet Increase

sc β€“ Single Crochet

slst β€“ Slip Stitch


HEAD AND BODY

Round 1

Step 1: Ch-6

Step 2: 3-sc into the 2nd chain from the hook. 3-sc, 3-sc into the last chain (9)

Step 3: Working on the opposite side of the chain, 3-sc, slst into the first sc stitch

Round 2: (inc, 5-sc) x 2 (14)

Round 3: 14-sc

Round 4: 3-sc, inc, 6-sc, inc, 3-sc (16)

Round 5-6: 16-sc

Round 7: (inc, 7-sc) x 2 (18)

Round 8: 18-sc

Round 9: 4-sc, inc, 8-sc, inc, 4-sc (20)

Round 10: 20-sc

In Round 11, we will divide the body into two portions. Since there are 20 stitches for the body, there will be 10 stitches in both sections (front and back). 

Round 11 (BACK SECTION)

Step 1: 6-sc

Step 2: Pick up the front loop of the 7th stitch with your hook, slip stitch this loop together with the 18th stitch

Step 3: Pick up the front loop of the 8th stitch with your hook, slip stitch this loop together with the 17th stitch

Step 4: 8-sc

Round 11 (FRONT SECTION): 1-slst into the two center joint stitches made in Round 11 (Back Section), 2-sc

The head and body is completed after Round 11 but do not cut the yarn yet.


HEAD/BODY STUFFING

Before we crochet the legs, we need to stuff the fiberfill into the body and close it up from the center part of the body via sewing. 

  • Insert the needle into one of the center slip stitches, leave a tail in the middle so that you can use it to sew the other side. 
  • Sew along the gap between Round 9 and 10 and adjust the stuffing (if needed) as you sew.
  • Do not over stuff the body so that the sides can be flipped up after stitching.
  • Leave the tails at the side of the body. We will use them to stitch up the sides during the bending of the legs.

FIRST LEG

Excluding the 4 center stitches, each leg will have a circle of 8 stitches.

Round 1-4: 8-sc

Round 5: 8-sc (BLO) , cut and leave a tail to close off by picking the outer loops of the 8 stitches with your needle after stuffing

SECOND LEG

You can insert your hook into any of the stitches. In this pattern, I’ve inserted my hook into the first stitch from the center with the back section facing me.

Round 1: Ch-1, 1-sc into the same stitch as Chain 1, 7-sc (8)

Round 2-4: 8-sc

Round 5: 8-sc (BLO) , cut and leave a tail to close off by picking the outer loops of the 8 stitches with your needle after stuffing


STUFFING AND POSITIONING THE LEGS

Start stuffing the legs once you have completed crocheting the 2nd leg. Make sure that the leg is able to bend at the stitched joint before closing off and tucking in Round 5 to flatten the bottom part during weaving in.

During weaving in, bring the yarn tail to the front part of the legs. Bend the leg and secure the position by stitching it to the body. Then stitch up along the sides (outer and inner part of the legs) as according to your preferences.


FACE MASK

Using White color yarn, Ch-5

Round 1

Step 1: 1-sc into the 2nd chain from hook, 3-sc, change to Light Blue color in your last yarn over (4)

Step 2: inc into the same stitch, 2-sc, inc into the last loop, slst into the first sc stitch (6)

Round 2: (1-sc, inc) x 5, change to Black color in your last yarn over (15)

Round 3: 15-sc, slst into the first sc stitch, cut and leave a tail for attaching purpose

BACK PACK

For the back pack meant for our sitting crewmate, it is slightly different from the standing crewmate because I made it a little wider so that it can act as a support for the body.

Using the same yarn color as the body, Ch 6

Row 1: 1-sc into the 2nd chain from hook, 4-sc, Ch-1, turn (5)

Row 2-3: 5-sc, Ch-1, turn

From this point, we will crochet along the perimeter of the workpiece.

Round 1

Step 1: 1-sc into same stitch as Chain 1, 3-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1, 1-sc) into the last stitch (6)

Step 2: Rotate your workpiece until the SIDE 1 is facing up

Step 3: 3-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1, 1-sc) into the last stitch of SIDE 1 (5)

Step 4: Rotate your workpiece until the BOTTOM side is facing up, Repeat Step 3

Step 5: Rotate your workpiece until the SIDE 2 is facing up, 3-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1) into the last stitch, slst back into the first sc stitch (4)

Round 2: Ch-1, 24-sc (BLO), slst back into the first sc stitch (Note: These 24 stitches include the 4 Ch-1 back loops at the four corners)

Round 3: Ch 1, 24-slst (FLO), 1-slst back into the first Chain 1, cut and leave a tail for sewing


ASSEMBLING

When you view your workpiece from the top, the top 2 rows are only 1 round, do not consider it as 2 rounds when you are positioning your facemask and backpack. Instead of sewing along the perimeter at the beginning, I would make a simple stitch at the four corners of the facemask and backpack in order to secure the position before stuffing (if needed).

You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern.

Hope all you lovely souls enjoy crocheting this cute little Sitting Crewmate keychain.

Do share with us your project in the comment section or in our Facebook page should you decided to crochet one for yourself or your loved ones.

Till then,

TTFN~ Cheers!

Sitting Mini Crewmate Keychain Crochet Pattern (Part 1)


Although I never played this mobile game, two items managed to catch my attention — the Egg Hat (free pattern in my previous post – Standing Crewmate Keychain Pattern) and the sitting mini crewmates. As there are two different methods for the head/body and legs, there will be two separate posts for this cutie. In this post, the head/body and legs are two separate components and in the next post, we will crochet these two into one piece.

Using a yarn weightage of 15 WPI (any type of yarn) and a 2mm crochet hook, you can create a sitting crewmate with a height of 4.5cm/1.8”. Using thinner yarns (about 19 WPI), you can create a tiny one with a height of 3.5cm/1.4”.

Difficulty: Advance Beginner/Intermediate

Time Taken: 45 min – 1hr

Abbreviations (US Terminology)

AMR β€“ Adjustable Magic Ring

BLO/FLO β€“ Back/Front Loop Only

Ch β€“ Chain

dec – Single Crochet Decrease

inc β€“ Single Crochet Increase

sc β€“ Single Crochet

slst β€“ Slip Stitch


HEAD AND BODY

Round 1

Step 1: Ch-8

Step 2: 3-sc into the 2nd chain from hook, 5-sc, 3-sc into the last chain (11)

Step 3: Working on the opposite side of the chain, 5-sc, slst into the first sc stitch

Round 2: 3-sc into the first stitch, 7-sc, 3-sc into the next stitch, 7-sc (20)

Round 3: 20-sc (FLO)

Round 4-5: 20-sc

Round 6: 5-sc, dec, 8-sc, dec, 3-sc (18)

Round 7: 18-sc

Round 8: (dec, 7-sc) x 2 (16)

Round 9-10: 16-sc

Round 11: (2-sc, dec) x 4, stuff fiberfill into the body (12)

Round 12: dec x 6 , stuff in fiberfill (if needed) before closing up (6)


LEGS (MAKE 2)

Using the same color as the head/body, form an AMR

Round 1: 8-sc into AMR

Round 2: 8-sc

Round 3: 8-sc (BLO)

Round 4: Stuff in fiberfill, pinch the opening to align the stitches in both sides, crochet 3-sc across to close up, cut and leave a tail for sewing (3)

FACE MASK

Using White color yarn, Ch-5

Round 1

Step 1: 1-sc into the 2nd chain from hook, 3-sc, change to Light Blue color in your last yarn over (4)

Step 2: inc into the same stitch, 2-sc, inc into the last loop, slst into the first sc stitch (6)

Round 2: (1-sc, inc) x 5, change to Black color in your last yarn over (15)

Round 3: 15-sc, slst into the first sc stitch, cut and leave a tail for attaching purpose


BACK PACK

For the back pack meant for our sitting crewmate, it is slightly different from the standing crewmate because I made it a little wider so that it can act as a support for the body.

Using the same yarn color as the body, Ch 6

Row 1: 1-sc into the 2nd chain from hook, 4-sc, Ch-1, turn (5)

Row 2-3: 5-sc, Ch-1, turn

From this point, we will crochet along the perimeter of the workpiece.

Round 1

Step 1: 1-sc into same stitch as Chain 1, 3-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1, 1-sc) into the last stitch (6)

Step 2: Rotate your workpiece until the SIDE 1 is facing up

Step 3: 3-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1, 1-sc) into the last stitch of SIDE 1 (5)

Step 4: Rotate your workpiece until the BOTTOM side is facing up, Repeat Step 3

Step 5: Rotate your workpiece until the SIDE 2 is facing up, 3-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1) into the last stitch, slst back into the first sc stitch (4)

Round 2: Ch-1, 24-sc (BLO), slst back into the first sc stitch (Note: These 24 stitches include the 4 Ch-1 back loops at the four corners)

Round 3: Ch 1, 24-slst (FLO), 1-slst back into the first Chain 1, cut and leave a tail for sewing


ASSEMBLING

LEGS

Choose the side that you would like to be the front, and use a stitch marker as an indication. The joints of the legs should be aligned with the back section of the body when you sew them to the bottom part. This is to ensure that you can bend them to the front after sewing.

FACE MASK AND BACK PACK

When you view your workpiece from the top, the top 2 rows are only 1 round, do not consider it as 2 rounds when you are positioning your facemask and backpack. Instead of sewing along the perimeter at the beginning, I would make a simple stitch at the four corners of the facemask and backpack in order to secure the position before stuffing (if needed).

You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern.

Hope all you lovely souls enjoy crocheting this cute little Sitting Crewmate keychain.

Do share with us your project in the comment section or in our Facebook page should you decided to crochet one for yourself or your loved ones.

Till then,

TTFN~ Cheers!

Standing Crewmate Keychain Crochet Pattern


Crewmate Keychain with Egg Hat

The height of this crewmate is about 5.5cm/2.2”. I am using 15 WPI milk cotton yarn and a 2mm crochet hook for this pattern.

Difficulty: Beginner/Basic

Time Taken: 30 min

Abbreviations (US Terminology)

AMR – Adjustable Magic Ring

BLO/FLO – Back/Front Loop Only

Ch – Chain

inc – Single Crochet Increase

sc – Single Crochet

slst – Slip Stitch


HEAD/BODY (Yarn Thickness: 17 WPI)

Round 1

Step 1: Ch 6

Step 2: 3-sc into the 2nd chain from hook , 3-sc, 3-sc into the last loop (9)

Step 3: Working on the opposite side of the chain, 3-sc, slst into the first sc stitch

Round 2: (inc, 5-sc) x 2 (14)

Round 3: 14-sc

Round 4: 3-sc, inc, 6-sc, inc, 3-sc (16)

Round 5-7: 16-sc

Round 8: (3-sc, inc) x 4 (20)

Round 9: 20-sc

Round 10

Step 1: 5-sc

Step 2: Join the 6th and 17th stitch together with 1-slst, then join the 7th and 16th stitch with 1-slst

Step 3: 8-sc, 1-slst back into the 2 joined slip stitches made in Step 2, 3-sc (11)


Before we crochet the legs, you can start stuffing fiberfill into the body. Excluding the 4 single crochet stitches in the middle, each leg will have a circle of 8 single crochet stitches. With that in mind, let’s continue with the legs. 

FIRST LEG

Round 1: 5-sc, 1-slst into the joined stitch, Ch-1, 3-sc (8)

Round 2: 5-sc, skip the Ch-1 stitch, 3-sc (8)

Round 3: 8-sc

Round 4: 8-sc (BLO), cut and leave a tail to close off by picking the outer loops of the 8 stitches. Stuff the leg before tightening the yarn tail .

SECOND LEG

You can insert your hook into any of the stitches, just remember to make a slip stitch and Chain 1 when you reach the center part. In this pattern, I’ve inserted my hook into the 2nd stitch from the center.

Round 1: Ch-1, 1-sc into the same stitch as Chain 1, 6-sc, 1-slst into the joined stitch, Ch-1, 1-sc (8)

Round 2: 7-sc, skip the Ch-1 stitch, 1-sc (8)

Round 3: 8-sc

Round 4: 8-sc (BLO), cut and leave a tail to close off.


FACE MASK

Using White color yarn, Ch-5

Round 1

Step 1: 1-sc into the 2nd chain from hook, 3-sc, change to Light Blue color in your last yarn over (4)

Step 2: inc into the same stitch, 2-sc, inc into the last loop, slst into the first sc stitch (6)

Round 2: (1-sc, inc) x 5, change to Black color in your last yarn over (15)

Round 3: 15-sc, slst into the first sc stitch, cut and leave a tail for attaching purpose

BACKPACK

Using the same color as the head/body, Ch-5

Row 1: 1-sc into the 2nd chain from hook, 3-sc, Ch-1, turn (4)

Row 2-3: 4-sc, Ch-1, turn

From this point, we will crochet along the perimeter of the workpiece

Round 1

Step 1: 1-sc into the same stitch as Chain 1, 2-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1, 1-sc) into the last stitch the TOP side (5)

Step 2: Rotate your workpiece until the SIDE 1 is facing up

Step 3: 2-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1, 1-sc) into the last stitch of SIDE 1 (4)

Step 4: Rotate your workpiece until the BOTTOM side is facing up, Repeat Step 3

Step 5: Rotate your workpiece until the SIDE 2 is facing up, 2-sc, (1-sc, Ch-1) into the last stitch, slst back into the first sc stitch (3)

Round 2: Ch-1, 20-sc (BLO), slst back into the first sc stitch (Note: These 20 stitches include the 4 Ch-1 back loops at the four corners)

Round 3: Ch 1, 20-slst (FLO), 1-slst back into the first Chain 1, cut and leave a tail for sewing


EGG HAT (DESIGN 1)

Using Orange or Yellow color, form an AMR

Round 1: 8-sc into AMR

Round 2: (FLO) 8-sc, change to White color in your last yarn over

Round 3: (BLO) 8-sc

Round 4: (2-sc, inc) x 2, 2-inc (12)

Round 5

Step 1: 1-slst, Ch-1, 1-sc into the same stitch as Chain 1, Ch-2, 2-slst (4)

Step 2: Ch-1, 1-sc into the next stitch, Ch-2, 1-slst (2)

Step 3: Ch-1, 1-sc into the same stitch as Chain 1, Ch-2, 2slst (3)

Step 4: Ch-1, 1-sc into the next stitch, Ch-1, 1-sc into the same stitch as Chain 1 (2)

Step 5: Ch-2, 2-slst, Ch-1, 1-sc into the next stitch, slst back to the first slip stitch, cut and leave a long tail for sewing (3)

EGG HAT (DESIGN 2)

Using Orange or Yellow color, form an AMR

Round 1-4: Same as Design 1

Round 5

Step 1: 1-slst, Ch-1, 1-sc into the next stitch, Ch-2, 1-slst (3)

Step 2: (Ch-1, 1-sc into the next stitch, Ch-2, 1-slst) x 4, 1-slst into the last stitch, slst back into the first slip stitch, cut and leave a long tail for sewing (9)


ASSEMBLING

When you view your workpiece from the top, the top 2 rows are only 1 round (see photo below), do not consider it as 2 rounds when you are positioning your facemask and backpack. Instead of sewing along the perimeter at the beginning, I would make a simple stitch at the four corners of the facemask and backpack in order to secure the position before stuffing (if needed).

You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern.

Hope all you lovely souls enjoy crocheting this cute little Crewmate keychain.

Do share with us your project in the comment section or in our Facebook page should you decided to crochet one for yourself or your loved ones.

Till then,

TTFN~ Cheers!